Point : Lukang (Deer Port ) |
Count:155336 |
According to myth, Lukang sits on the dragon head of the Changhua’s dragon. By coincidence, historian had named the period of development from the Ch’ing Dynasty Kang-hsi (1662-1722) era to 22nd year of the Taokuang period (1842), a total of 150 odd years, as “Lukang Era”. This precious land was developed from the Ch’ing Dynasty Chiang-long’s era in the 17th century when the Fujian and Lukang sea route was open for trade. Lukang then became the island’s largest port and second largest town after Tainan. About 100 ships of all kinds sailed into Lukang from the Mainland every day carrying manufactured goods, immigrants, artisans and shaped stone used as construction material.
According to historians, the Chiang-long and Zia-ching eras are the golden eras for Lukang. Today, the numerous temples and historical remains bear testimonial to Lukang’s glorious and prosperous past. The street layout was adopted from the Mainland Zhian State. Thus, it is also pleasantly referred to as “Prosperous as mini Zhian State”. During Lukang’s most prosperous days, the developments centered around eight main suburbs namely Chian, Hsia, Nan, Pu, Kan, Yu, Lan and Tang. The streets are segregated according to the type of trade. For instance, the Meizhi Street was for rice traders, Pantian Sreet was originally for coffin selling. The present day Dershin Street was for bamboo items trade in those days. Among the eight suburbs, the Chian community is the most prosperous where the tycoon Li-pin was then the richest and most influential businessman in Lukang. History also tells of many witty stories about Li-pin.
An officer at the Lukang Folk Arts Museum told us an interesting story about Li-pin. During the Zia-ching era, the rich Li-pin who operated from his building called “Lemouhan”, like to mingle with the visiting dignitaries who reside in his lavish building. When Royalty Zia-Ching visited, Li-pin left him to his servants. Then, at dust, Li-pin’s servants accidentally saw Zia-ching’s followers washing Zia’s feet. Realizing that, Li was worried. Then, he sneaked out from the backdoor and came back from the front door with an umbrella and wooden shoes, pretending to be back from an exhausting day of busy work. He then greeted the royalty and set up a big feast in his honor. Due to the overwhelming hospitality, Zia-ching awarded Li with a plague inscribed with the words, “Ta-kuan” meaning “grandest view” and named the building “Tai Zhi Lou” (Prince's Building).
Another legend was told by a Lukang elderly civil servant Li Meng-yang. According to his story, Li-pin boasted that he wanted to build 100 doors at his house. At that time, only the palace is allowed to build 100 doors. But being rich and seemingly powerful, Li went ahead with his plan. However, when the 100th door was being erected, it wouldn’t fit, no matter how every expert tried. So, Li-pin was forced to give up. After more than a decade of deterioration, much of Tai Zhi Lou is now in ruin. Only a few old structures remain.
As the economy prospered, the eight suburbs built several temples such as the Tienhou and the Longshan Temple in their respective community. The Longshan Temples are of exceptional beauties. According to a local dignitary named Hsi Chun-shin, Lukang’s dragon head is at Longshan Temple’s back courtyard near the three wells. Two of the round-shaped wells represent the dragon’s eyes and the middle square-shaped well is the dragon’s mouth. As such, for years, houses nearby were not allowed to be higher than Longshan Temple. In addition, the 99 doors were fine architectural work. Every entry point has its implications. For instance, in the first door, there were three columns each on both sides, two are square shaped and one is round. The six columns were referred to as “66 ta-soon” meaning “smooth sailing”. Every level has a compound and the arch is extremely high symbolizing superiority.
As every piece and corner of the temple seemed well “regulated,” any alteration or renovation needs to be “approved” by God. Failing which, accident would befall. According to Hsi Chun-shi, once, a carpenter died mysteriously after he tried to fix an ornament on the arch.
There are many historical valuables in this temple. For instance, the status of Kuanyin in the forecourt is made of rare green bronze. It was once stolen and smuggled to Hongkong. When it was later recovered, a glass casing was built to prevent future theft. In addition, the 18 arhats in the center court are said to be built by a specialist from the Mainland.
The Thien-Hou Temple is dedicated to Matsu, the Goddess of the Sea. Old stories tell of the animosity between the Lukang and Peikan Matsu worshippers. According to the story, once, the town of Peikan borrowed the statue of Matsu and refused to return it. It followed that the worshippers from Peikan also stopped going to Lukang as they then had the Matsu. After some fierce negotiations and persuasions, the statue was finally returned. The Lukang villagers locked the statue tightly inside the temple and vowed never to lend the statue.
It is obvious that many the historical valuables in the numerous temples in Lukang have been subject to theft and private guards have to be hired in some places.
The grandest event in Lukang is from lunar July 1 to August 2 which is the month of the ghost festival. Mass rituals for reincarnation are being performed. On lunar July 1, the Hell Gate is open and water lanterns are placed on lake and rivers to guild the spirits to get the offerings. The Hell Gate closes on July 30 where every households hold ceremonial virtue in front of their front gates to bid farewell to the spirits and pray that the spirits would bring back praises. On Aug 20, the Hell Guards will comb through the streets to take in remaining wondering spirits. On October1, another reincarnation ritual is performed which concludes the entire Ghost Festival.
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By car:
From Changhua highway Exchange, go along the No 142 county lane southward.
Connect to Changloo Road and turn to Chungsun Road, you will soon see the temple.
By bus :
From Taipei, take the Chungshin bus bound for Lukang. Buses leave every half an hour.
From Taichung or Changhua, take the Changhua Express Bus bound for Lukang.
Buses leave every 5 to 10 minutes. From Changhua, buses leave every 10 to 15 minutes. |
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